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…LOST INDO T.V.

@LOST_INDO

“ I usually like to ride a fish or something really, really small, when I want to practice my position. How do I explain it?
At a place like Sunset, I usually love riding my bigger board and just running away from never really getting caught inside—doing the older guy theory, catch the wave at Point A and ride it to Point C, kick out, then go all the way wide back out to the top.
Then you don’t use too much energy and can surf as long as you can.
But sometimes I get this urge to ride the tiniest board I can possibly I ride out there…because everyone else is on a really long one. So I’ll ride a small one just to get on the opposite side of every one.
There’s something so fun about not being able to run away. When I’m on that fish or anything under 6’ at Sunset, you notice that when you position yourself you have to sit more inside than you usually want, which is already a little scary. I’m not the super gnarly fucking charger that’s ready to get caught inside all the time. I like to sit a little outside, be safe and runaway.
But the fish makes me sit in the pit. Then when the bombs come I can’t really run, I have to sit there, so it’s kind of teaching me how to sit and stay calm when you want to run.
Eventually you learn that you don’t have to run and the wave will be right in the perfect spot. Then, when you do get back on your bigger board, you’re way more ballsy out there. You’re so much more calm. You’re not running any more. You’re just sitting there waiting. You learn the lineup more on a smaller board.
It’s a workout. Everyone’s trains around here and they’re in their gyms and shit, so I just figure, fuck yeah, a 5’2”! I’m just going to paddle harder than every trainer guy around here. I’m training today. That’s my theory.
The climax of riding the small board is that once you stand-up on one of those big waves you’re just fucking flying. It’s easy to maneuver. There’s no better feeling. I always thought that if you can paddle into the wave, you’re set. I try to tell myself that I can ride anything on the wave, but catching them is the trick. But with the fish, you ain’t running nowhere...
“ I usually like to ride a fish or something really, really small, when I want to practice my position. How do I explain it? At a place like Sunset, I usually love riding my bigger board and just running away from never really getting caught inside—doing the older guy theory, catch the wave at Point A and ride it to Point C, kick out, then go all the way wide back out to the top. Then you don’t use too much energy and can surf as long as you can. But sometimes I get this urge to ride the tiniest board I can possibly I ride out there…because everyone else is on a really long one. So I’ll ride a small one just to get on the opposite side of every one. There’s something so fun about not being able to run away. When I’m on that fish or anything under 6’ at Sunset, you notice that when you position yourself you have to sit more inside than you usually want, which is already a little scary. I’m not the super gnarly fucking charger that’s ready to get caught inside all the time. I like to sit a little outside, be safe and runaway. But the fish makes me sit in the pit. Then when the bombs come I can’t really run, I have to sit there, so it’s kind of teaching me how to sit and stay calm when you want to run. Eventually you learn that you don’t have to run and the wave will be right in the perfect spot. Then, when you do get back on your bigger board, you’re way more ballsy out there. You’re so much more calm. You’re not running any more. You’re just sitting there waiting. You learn the lineup more on a smaller board. It’s a workout. Everyone’s trains around here and they’re in their gyms and shit, so I just figure, fuck yeah, a 5’2”! I’m just going to paddle harder than every trainer guy around here. I’m training today. That’s my theory. The climax of riding the small board is that once you stand-up on one of those big waves you’re just fucking flying. It’s easy to maneuver. There’s no better feeling. I always thought that if you can paddle into the wave, you’re set. I try to tell myself that I can ride anything on the wave, but catching them is the trick. But with the fish, you ain’t running nowhere..." @cocom4debarrelkilla Is over at @stab